{"id":64239,"date":"2014-01-23T00:59:55","date_gmt":"2014-01-22T23:59:55","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/dev.jaknaletenky.cz\/?p=64239"},"modified":"2019-11-28T17:22:15","modified_gmt":"2019-11-28T16:22:15","slug":"pamatky-unesco-na-severu-polska","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/dev.jaknaletenky.cz\/pamatky-unesco-na-severu-polska.html","title":{"rendered":"Pam\u00e1tky UNESCO na severu POLSKA"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>V polovin\u011b \u010dervna 2013 jsem se vydal na dovolenou do Polska. B\u011bhem kr\u00e1sn\u00fdch a proslun\u011bn\u00fdch p\u011bti dn\u016f jsem se po vlastn\u00ed ose postupn\u011b dostal a\u017e k Baltu a poznal jsem, \u017ee t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 v\u0161echny p\u0159edstavy, kter\u00e9 o t\u00e9to zemi mezi \u010cechy koluj\u00ed, jsou myln\u00e9. A\u017e na jednu \u2013 skute\u010dn\u011b plat\u00ed, \u017ee v Polsku je levn\u011b. T\u0159eba bude i pro v\u00e1s tento \u010dl\u00e1nek tipem na p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00fd a finan\u010dn\u011b nen\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00fd v\u00fdlet do t\u0159\u00ed m\u011bst s bohatou histori\u00ed a z\u00e1pisem do seznamu sv\u011btov\u00e9ho d\u011bdictv\u00ed UNESCO \u2013 Toru\u0148, Malbork a Gda\u0148sk.<\/p>\n<p>Spole\u010dnost Polskibus je mezi \u010dten\u00e1\u0159i tohoto serveru dostate\u010dn\u011b zn\u00e1m\u00e1. Prvn\u00ed j\u00edzdenku v ka\u017ed\u00e9m spoji prod\u00e1v\u00e1 za jeden polsk\u00fd zlot\u00fd, co\u017e je cena naprosto bezkonkuren\u010dn\u00ed, a to i s ohledem na ned\u00e1vnou kurzovou intervenci \u010cNB. Po bleskov\u00e9m vyprod\u00e1n\u00ed prvn\u00edch m\u00edst v dan\u00e9m autobuse v\u0161ak z\u016fst\u00e1vaj\u00ed i b\u011b\u017en\u00e9 ceny na neobvykle n\u00edzk\u00e9 \u00farovni, proto nemus\u00edte truchlit, pokud nestihnete v\u010das reagovat na zah\u00e1jen\u00ed prodeje nov\u00e9ho kontingentu l\u00edstk\u016f. J\u00e1 jsem si zakoupil celkem \u010dty\u0159i samostatn\u00e9 l\u00edstky: Praha \u2013 Var\u0161ava, Var\u0161ava \u2013 Toru\u0148, Gda\u0148sk \u2013 Var\u0161ava, Var\u0161ava \u2013 Praha. Zaplatil jsem za n\u011b celkem jen 60 zlot\u00fdch, tak\u017ee kdy\u017e Polskibus na ja\u0159e otev\u0159el novou trasu, kter\u00e1 mi umo\u017enila p\u0159estoupit na bus do Torun\u011b u\u017e v Lod\u017ei, mohl jsem si koupit l\u00edstek nov\u00fd a ten star\u00fd zahodit.<\/p>\n<p>M\u016fj v\u00fdlet za\u010d\u00ednal no\u010dn\u00edm p\u0159ejezdem z Prahy do Torun\u011b. Autobusy s \u010d\u00e1pem ve znaku provozovan\u00e9 firmou Polskibus jsou na svou cenu ne\u010dekan\u011b komfortn\u00ed. Nem\u016f\u017eete sice po\u017eadovat denn\u00ed tisk a k\u00e1vu tak jako u Student Agency (i kdy\u017e p\u0159i n\u00e1vratu se rozd\u00e1val dezert zdarma), ale srovn\u00e1n\u00ed s autobusy Eurolines je zde naprosto na m\u00edst\u011b. \u0158\u00edk\u00e1 se, \u017ee v Polsku neexistuj\u00ed d\u00e1lnice, a nen\u00ed to pravda. V Polsku se stav\u00ed jako o z\u00e1vod, a \u010d\u00edm d\u00e1l t\u00edm del\u0161\u00ed \u00fasek cesty do Torun\u011b bude v budoucnu prob\u00edhat po d\u00e1lnici. Bohu\u017eel v bl\u00edzkosti hranic s \u010cR se po\u0159\u00e1d jezd\u00ed po okresk\u00e1ch, kter\u00e9 nah\u00e1n\u011bj\u00ed strach. Autobus tedy poskytoval dostatek m\u00edsta a komfortu k relaxaci, ov\u0161em v \u00faseku N\u00e1chod \u2013 Vratislav \u2013 Lod\u017e bych se na tamn\u00edch silnic\u00edch rad\u011bji necht\u011bl vyskytovat v dob\u011b, kdy mrzne a hroz\u00ed n\u00e1led\u00ed, a to v jak\u00e9mkoliv silni\u010dn\u00edm dopravn\u00edm prost\u0159edku.<\/p>\n<p>Toru\u0148 je kouzeln\u00e9 gotick\u00e9 m\u011bsto s kompaktn\u00edm historick\u00fdm (po v\u00e1lce rekonstruovan\u00fdm) centrem. P\u0159i slune\u010dn\u00e9m letn\u00edm po\u010das\u00ed je kr\u00e1sn\u00fdm z\u00e1\u017eitkem proj\u00edt se po promen\u00e1d\u011b pod\u00e9l Visly, sledovat odlesky slune\u010dn\u00edch paprsk\u016f ve vod\u011b a toulat se mezi obrovsk\u00fdmi domy postaven\u00fdmi ze syt\u011b \u010derven\u00fdch cihel. Nejlep\u0161\u00ed pohled na hlavn\u00ed n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed se nab\u00edz\u00ed z radni\u010dn\u00ed v\u011b\u017ee, budova radnice d\u00e1le za 10 zlot\u00fdch skr\u00fdv\u00e1 rozs\u00e1hlou sb\u00edrku polsk\u00e9ho mal\u00ed\u0159stv\u00ed a \u0159emesel, kter\u00e1 pokr\u00fdv\u00e1 n\u011bkolik posledn\u00edch stolet\u00ed. Zahrani\u010dn\u00ed v\u00fdtvarn\u00e9 um\u011bn\u00ed, ka\u017ed\u00fd m\u011bs\u00edc jin\u00e9, najdete sm\u011brem na sever od centra v galerii Centrum Sztuki Wspolczesnej, kter\u00e1 n\u00e1m \u010cech\u016fm p\u0159ipomene hole\u0161ovick\u00fd v\u00fdstavn\u00ed d\u016fm DOX.<\/p>\n<p>Va\u0161e kroky v Toruni nemohou minout ani roztomilou expozici v rodn\u00e9m dom\u011b Mikol\u00e1\u0161e Kopern\u00edka, kter\u00e1 m\u00edstn\u00edho rod\u00e1ka p\u0159edstavuje nejen jako p\u0159evratn\u00e9ho astronoma, ale i jako ekonoma, l\u00e9ka\u0159e a pr\u00e1vn\u00edka. M\u00fdm tajn\u00fdm tipem pro v\u0161echny piva\u0159e je toru\u0148sk\u00fd minipivovar Jan Olbracht. Jejich pern\u00edkov\u00e9 pivo je jedn\u00edm z nejlep\u0161\u00edch tmav\u00fdch piv, kter\u00e1 jsem kdy ochutnal (cena tomu odpov\u00edd\u00e1 \u2013 10 zlot\u00fdch). Pokud by v\u00e1s p\u0159ekvapil ten n\u00e1pad p\u0159id\u00e1vat do piva ko\u0159en\u00ed na pern\u00edk, v\u011bzte, \u017ee jsme v polsk\u00e9 pern\u00edkov\u00e9 metropoli a tuto pochoutku tu potk\u00e1te na ka\u017ed\u00e9m rohu (maj\u00ed tu i muzeum pern\u00edku). A pokud se budete po degustaci lahodn\u00e9ho moku t\u00e1zat, kdo \u017ee byl ten Jan Olbracht, dozv\u00edte se to v ji\u017e zm\u00edn\u011bn\u00e9 expozici v radnici. Nehled\u011b na to, \u017ee z pivovaru i z radnice je to jen 100 metr\u016f k lahodn\u00fdm masov\u00fdm piroh\u016fm v Pierogarnie Stary Mlyn.<\/p>\n<p>Pol\u0161tina m\u00e1 s \u010de\u0161tinou mnoho spole\u010dn\u00e9ho, a tak nen\u00ed slo\u017eit\u00e9 porozum\u011bt aspo\u0148 jej\u00ed psan\u00e9 podob\u011b. Popisky v muzeu, na v\u00fdrobc\u00edch v obchodech nebo na j\u00edzdn\u00edch \u0159\u00e1dech pro m\u011b nep\u0159edstavovaly probl\u00e9m, proto jsem se druh\u00fd den v Toruni impulzivn\u011b rozhodl pro p\u016fldenn\u00ed v\u00fdlet m\u00edstn\u00ed autobusovou linkou na z\u00e1me\u010dek Golub-Dobrzyn. Nejedn\u00e1 se o v\u00fdznamnou pam\u00e1tku, ale prohl\u00eddka t\u00e9to stavby byla mil\u00fdm zpest\u0159en\u00edm a za p\u00e1r hodin jsem byl zp\u011bt v Toruni. Nocoval jsem v samostatn\u00e9m pokoji v podniku Hostel Orange, kter\u00fd byl na velmi dobr\u00e9 \u00farovni. Cht\u011bj\u00ed ov\u0161em z\u00e1lohu p\u0159edem, proto k rezervaci zvolte web, kter\u00fd v\u00e1m ji p\u0159\u00edmo strhne z karty (nap\u0159. Hostelworld). Vyhnete se tak nutnosti pos\u00edlat z\u00e1lohu do Polska \u0161ekem nebo drah\u00fdm mezin\u00e1rodn\u00edm p\u0159evodem. Dv\u011b noci m\u011b vy\u0161ly celkem na 100 zlot\u00fdch, cena byla tedy p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b na \u010desk\u00e9 \u00farovni a za podobn\u00fd obnos jsem spal i v Malborku a Gda\u0148sku.<\/p>\n<p>Pro p\u0159epravu za kolos\u00e1ln\u00edm hradem do Malborku jsem z\u00e1m\u011brn\u011b zvolil zast\u00e1vkov\u00fd vlak, kter\u00fd stav\u00ed i v Kwidzyn\u011b. Maj\u00ed tam toti\u017e tak\u00e9 hrad. Dokonce hrad s katedr\u00e1lou, v n\u00ed\u017e jsou poh\u0159beni t\u0159i velmist\u0159i \u0158\u00e1du n\u011bmeck\u00fdch ryt\u00ed\u0159\u016f. V pond\u011bl\u00ed m\u011bli zav\u0159eno, proto jsem tyto stavby mohl obdivovat jen zvenku, p\u0159esto m\u011blo i toto kr\u00e1tk\u00e9 zastaven\u00ed sv\u00e9 kouzlo a pak u\u017e honem na vlak sm\u011br Malbork. Po ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed ve velmi \u010dist\u00e9m, z\u0159ejm\u011b zcela nov\u00e9m penzionu Gemini Dom (hned u malborsk\u00e9ho n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed) jsem zam\u00ed\u0159il k nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edmu cihlov\u00e9mu hradu na sv\u011bt\u011b.<\/p>\n<p>Hrad Malbork b\u00fdv\u00e1 v pond\u011bl\u00ed otev\u0159en jen \u010d\u00e1ste\u010dn\u011b (n\u00e1dvo\u0159\u00ed a venkovn\u00ed prostory), zato v \u00fater\u00fd jsem nastoupil na kompletn\u00ed \u010dty\u0159hodinovou prohl\u00eddku s anglicky namluven\u00fdm audiopr\u016fvodcem na krku. Tento hrad byl v pozdn\u00edm 13. stolet\u00ed a ve 14. stolet\u00ed nejsiln\u011bj\u0161\u00edm epicentrem moci v Pobalt\u00ed, jako\u017eto s\u00eddlo velmistra \u0158\u00e1du n\u011bmeck\u00fdch ryt\u00ed\u0159\u016f a centrum \u0159\u00e1dov\u00e9ho st\u00e1tu. P\u0159i prvn\u00edm setk\u00e1n\u00ed s t\u00edmto ob\u0159\u00edm stavebn\u00edm komplexem se taj\u00ed dech a prohl\u00eddka je bohat\u00e1 na zaj\u00edmav\u00e1 historick\u00e1 fakta. Je dobr\u00e9 dostavit se na prohl\u00eddku brzy r\u00e1no, tedy p\u0159ed p\u0159\u00edjezdem autobus\u016f s n\u011bmeck\u00fdmi turisty. Jednou ze zaj\u00edmavost\u00ed, kterou nem\u00e1te \u0161anci se dozv\u011bd\u011bt, dokud skute\u010dn\u011b Malbork nenav\u0161t\u00edv\u00edte, je velmi zda\u0159il\u00e1 v\u00fdstava sou\u010dasn\u00e9ho polsk\u00e9ho socha\u0159stv\u00ed, kter\u00e1 voln\u011b prostupuje n\u00e1dvo\u0159\u00edmi a s\u00e1ly a dok\u00e1\u017ee tak sm\u00edsit znovupostaven\u00e9 d\u011bdictv\u00ed st\u0159edov\u011bku s naprosto sou\u010dasn\u00fdm um\u011bn\u00edm. V are\u00e1lu hradu z\u00e1rove\u0148 najdete zda\u0159ilou expozici um\u011bleck\u00fdch a duchovn\u00edch p\u0159edm\u011bt\u016f vyroben\u00fdch z jantaru. Druh\u00fdm, bohu\u017eel u\u017e m\u00e9n\u011b p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00fdm poznatkem, je fakt, \u017ee p\u00e1r des\u00edtek metr\u016f od zd\u00ed hradu za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 o\u0161kliv\u00e9 s\u00eddli\u0161t\u011b z dob socialismu (viz fotogalerie). Pokud si ale odmysl\u00edte panel\u00e1ky a celkovou pr\u016fmyslovou zpustlost tohoto m\u011bsta, hrad Malbork je z\u00e1\u017eitkem, kter\u00fd nesrovn\u00e1te s \u017e\u00e1dnou podobnou pam\u00e1tkou v na\u0161\u00ed vlasti.<\/p>\n<p>Po p\u00e1r dnech jsem u\u017e v\u011bd\u011bl, \u017ee \u010desk\u00e9 p\u0159edstavy o Polsku jsou trochu zkreslen\u00e9. Ve skute\u010dnosti tam va\u0159\u00ed dob\u0159e, maj\u00ed i pam\u00e1tky sv\u011btov\u00e9ho v\u00fdznamu, lid\u00e9 jsou mil\u00ed a shov\u00edvav\u00ed k va\u0161\u00ed snaze mluvit polsky a pracuj\u00ed na rozvoji sv\u00e9 d\u00e1lni\u010dn\u00ed s\u00edt\u011b. Zb\u00fdv\u00e1 tedy vyvr\u00e1tit posledn\u00ed m\u00fdtus, a sice \u017ee studen\u00e9 Baltsk\u00e9 mo\u0159e v Gda\u0148sku nen\u00ed ke koup\u00e1n\u00ed. Vydr\u017eel jsem to p\u011bt minut, nejsem \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd otu\u017eilec, ale dok\u00e1zal jsem to a skute\u010dn\u011b jsem chv\u00edli plaval v Baltu.<\/p>\n<p>Tak\u00e9 do Gda\u0148sku jsem se p\u0159epravil vlakem a ubytoval jsem se nedaleko od mo\u0159e v Amber Studiu. Tuto ubytovnu doporu\u010dit nemohu, sp\u00ed\u0161 si p\u0159ipla\u0165te za n\u011bco v\u00edc na \u00farovni. Obecn\u011b v\u0161ak sezn\u00e1te, \u017ee v tomto hrd\u00e9m velkom\u011bst\u011b b\u00fdval\u00e9 Prusk\u00e9 \u0159\u00ed\u0161e je cenov\u00e1 hladina bydlen\u00ed i stravov\u00e1n\u00ed nastavena v\u00fd\u0161 ne\u017e v Toruni a Malborku. Turist\u00e9 m\u00ed\u0159\u00ed zejm\u00e9na na hlavn\u00ed t\u0159\u00eddu, z n\u00ed\u017e nen\u00ed daleko k majest\u00e1tn\u00edmu chr\u00e1mu Nanebevzet\u00ed Panny Marie, nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edmu cihlov\u00e9mu kostelu na sv\u011bt\u011b. Stejn\u011b jako ostatn\u00ed kolemjdouc\u00ed v\u00fdletn\u00edci jsem i j\u00e1 dlouze p\u0159em\u00fd\u0161lel, jak tento chr\u00e1m dostat na fotku v cel\u00e9 jeho v\u00fd\u0161i, v\u00fdsledek m\u016f\u017eete sami posoudit ve fotogalerii. Je\u0161t\u011b v\u00edc ne\u017e tento kostel, kter\u00fd je uvnit\u0159 vybaven jen minim\u00e1ln\u00edm mobili\u00e1\u0159em, jsem si u\u017eil proch\u00e1zku na korze pod\u00e9l \u0159eky Motlavy se zmrzlinou a pohledem na v\u00fdletn\u00ed jachty. P\u0159ed dvacetihodinovou cestou dom\u016f (v\u010detn\u011b t\u0159\u00edhodinov\u00e9 p\u0159est\u00e1vky na p\u0159estup ve Var\u0161av\u011b) jsem si tak u\u017eil t\u00e9 nejv\u00edce st\u0159edozemn\u00ed atmosf\u00e9ry, jak\u00e1 se v\u00e1m na severu Polska naskytne. <em>Jind\u0159ich Vol\u00e1k<\/em><\/p>\n<p>Toru\u0148<br \/>\n<img src=\"https:\/\/dev.jaknaletenky.cz\/fota\/2014\/01\/tor1.jpg\" alt=\"tor1\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Toru\u0148<br \/>\n<img src=\"https:\/\/dev.jaknaletenky.cz\/fota\/2014\/01\/tor2.jpg\" alt=\"tor2\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Toru\u0148<br \/>\n<img src=\"https:\/\/dev.jaknaletenky.cz\/fota\/2014\/01\/tor3.jpg\" alt=\"tor3\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Toru\u0148<br \/>\n<img src=\"https:\/\/dev.jaknaletenky.cz\/fota\/2014\/01\/tor4.jpg\" alt=\"tor4\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Golub-Dobrzyn<br \/>\n<img src=\"https:\/\/dev.jaknaletenky.cz\/fota\/2014\/01\/golub.jpg\" alt=\"golub\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Kwidzyn<br \/>\n<img src=\"https:\/\/dev.jaknaletenky.cz\/fota\/2014\/01\/kwidzyn.jpg\" alt=\"kwidzyn\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Gda\u0148sk chr\u00e1m Nanebevzet\u00ed Panny Marie &#8211; nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed cihlov\u00fd kostel na sv\u011bt\u011b<br \/>\n<img src=\"https:\/\/dev.jaknaletenky.cz\/fota\/2014\/01\/gda1.jpg\" alt=\"gda1\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Gda\u0148sk<br \/>\n<img src=\"https:\/\/dev.jaknaletenky.cz\/fota\/2014\/01\/gda2.jpg\" alt=\"gda2\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Gda\u0148sk<br \/>\n<img src=\"https:\/\/dev.jaknaletenky.cz\/fota\/2014\/01\/gda3.jpg\" alt=\"gda3\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Gda\u0148sk<br \/>\n<img src=\"https:\/\/dev.jaknaletenky.cz\/fota\/2014\/01\/gda4.jpg\" alt=\"gda4\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Malbork<br \/>\n<img src=\"https:\/\/dev.jaknaletenky.cz\/fota\/2014\/01\/mal1.jpg\" alt=\"mal1\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Malbork<br \/>\n<img src=\"https:\/\/dev.jaknaletenky.cz\/fota\/2014\/01\/mal2.jpg\" alt=\"mal2\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Malbork (bl\u00edzko u historick\u00e9ho hradu je s\u00eddli\u0161t\u011b)<br \/>\n<img src=\"https:\/\/dev.jaknaletenky.cz\/fota\/2014\/01\/mal3.jpg\" alt=\"mal3\" \/><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>V polovin\u011b \u010dervna 2013 jsem se vydal na [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[553,391,660],"tags":[],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v19.0 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Pam\u00e1tky UNESCO na severu POLSKA - JAKnaLetenky.cz<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Pam\u00e1tky UNESCO na severu POLSKA, ak\u010dn\u00ed letenky, levn\u00e9 z\u00e1jezd, cestopisy a trip reporty. 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